Lots to be doing.

Questions regarding the DR750

Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Thu Sep 19, 2019 11:04 pm

Cheers for the advice lads.
Do you think this will work?

Resi is selling me the below to use on the busa can, id is 49mm
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Any-Size-Uni ... XQwKdRe5uM
Say i take an aftermarket link pipe and use the above custom service to sleeve the can end of the link pipe out to fit Resi's flange. Then have the pipe tigged in.
It would mean cutting the link 100mm back from the can end as 100mm as this seems to be smallest they can do in length when reducing that size id. Question is...is the strqight strech of the bit going into the can 100mm long?
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The above is on the way incidentially but if happily sacrifice the link if i knew it'd work.

Two questions lads...i might use the gsxr can so how best to make a 4 bolt flange for the gsxr1k k1 exhaust and Nug how much of a ball ache is it for a normal human to shorten the busa exhaust plz just incase tis too hooge.and i cant get a decent 4 bolt flange.
Flange sounds rude :!: :tup:
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby nug » Sat Sep 21, 2019 8:55 pm

I will try get some pics up when I find them. Its not that bad to do if you are handy so it may be worth a go. You may be lucky and find that you can lose some of the length by getting the can further forward on the link pipe.
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Sun Sep 22, 2019 7:19 am

nug wrote:I will try get some pics up when I find them. Its not that bad to do if you are handy so it may be worth a go. You may be lucky and find that you can lose some of the length by getting the can further forward on the link pipe.

Please do Nug, so long as theres no fancy welding of alloys or stainless involved i should be good :tup:
Hopefully I can do as we mention and keep it forward as much as possible. Nervous sacrificing a perfectly good link pipe but tbh I would like to keep this bike quiet and close to stock. Wow how things change haha.
Looks like I will have to relocate the oem rear indicators which sucks.

First big spin on her yesterday.
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A whole hundred miles.
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Made a plate with the swiss reg on and headed to the VRT office for my appointment to clear her. Amazingly I got a cancellation wheI rang Friday for sat morn if I was willing to travel. Was nervous about this, there's potential to get wrapped in red tape on the finer points of the bikes particulars, but shes now reg'd thank god.

A big concern was this particular model bike would simply not be on their system. Computer says no craic like! This actually happens lol and is a ball ache. Other potential was proof of importation, which i had but things can get finnickey here. Either way yer man drove on and gave it the happy face stamp. They were out the door busy with this pre brexit bo@#ix rush so maybe that helped.

Shes 91C *****. The bike was pre registered in swissland so sat on a showroom floor for two years before selling. Would've liked the 89 reg as it would have been more original, that and vrt would have been free as she would be classed vintage and cheaper to tax also. Must sort this on blue big actually. Anyway she was small money to sort and has her paper's now. Phew!

It pissed there and back and she handled it very well. I was late leaving so went the motorway and she sat at 120kms without drama with plenty poke to spare. Only issue is a hanging idle most, but not all the time. Hangs at 1750 odd rpm. Theres slack on the cable so maybe butterflies are sticking or choke enrichment is to blame? Will see when I pull the carbs.
Getting used to the brakes but did forget i wasn't on big blue and had one slight oh sh1t stop ya bastid moment. Lesson learnt!

As luck would have it I encountered the boyz in blue five seperate fookin times lol! That only happens unless you have a homemade licence plate on :wtf: :lolno: One of them followed me a bit but then seemed to lose interest. Away coppers, away! :angel:

Must get time to strip her down again
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Gaskets arrived so no excuses! Hopefully the thinner spurious genny one doesn't bind the starter gears like on blue!

Btw Nug great link earlier re shock lengths and found a very comprehensive list and theres a couple possibilities. Beemer f800gs has the length but not sure on our required 30mm collet width for the eyelets to fit our frame. Looks feckin close tho!
Problem is, being late model bmw even second hand parts are mega expensive. Will keep eyes peeled tho. Be nice to find a better quality oem transplant. Lots of older bikes have found goldilocks "just right" transplants and it's a great way to cheaply upgrade.
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby nug » Tue Sep 24, 2019 9:07 pm

Can shortening tips for those with a long one or broken studs as in my case.

There is nothing scientific about the process. All common sense really once you have carefully opened the bugger up.

First thing to do is to decide how long you want the can. (You cannot open the can then reassemble it and maintain the original length).

Once you have decided the length, you need to add another 15mm or so to that measurement. Using masking tape or similar, run the tape around the can to make your cutting line. You can also use a long cable tie which is good because you can move it around until you are happy that it is dead square to the can. You can either mark around the tape or cable tie then remove it or just use the tape or cable tie as your guide.

Do not cut the can yet.

Next job is to remove the end cap from the outlet. The mushroom headed bolts have a small tack weld securing them. Using a dremel or similar, carefully grind the tack welds away. You can then remove the bolts and the cap.

Now you need your trusty angle grinder with a slitting disc on it.

You will see that the end of the cans outer aluminium sleeve is rolled over onto the can silencer internals. You need to carefully run around the can end cutting the rolled end off.

Once this is free you will be able to remove the internals. The studs may be corroded into the flange section of the can so it will likely need some persuasion with the knockometer.

Once you have pulled its guts out you will then be able to cut the outer can to your chosen length.

The next bit is tricky as you need to cut the internals down to fit back into the shortened outer.

If the studs are still intact you will want to re-use the captive end of the internals. The outer perforated section is spot welded to the captive stud end. This can be removed from the perforated outer section and kept for reuse once you have cut the perforated section to length. Being titanium you will not be able to weld it back together. This is not a problem provided you get the last bit right which is what holds it all together. I did not use the captive studs as mine had broken. You will see that the aluminium flange end is very thick and more than strong enough to take the bolts direct. The problem with this is that the bolts need to go in and attach to the link pipe before reassembly. Not ideal. I used a flange with a small spigot which allowed me to fit it just through reaching into the hole and using a socket on a swivel bar.

Depending on which method you use the critical thing is to get the length of the internals correct so that you have enough aluminium to roll back over the end.

If you do re-use the captive studs then you must make sure that it is pushed into the outer perforated section so as to allow the outer to bottom against the flange end. If not, it could end up moving and rattling.

Once the internals are back in, you need to double check that you have enough of the aluminium outer protruding so that you can roll it over the edge.

If you happen to have some panel beating skills (and hammers) the next bit is self explanatory. If not, you will need to go to the kitchen and find you wifes best hammer.

If you look at the pictures you will see that you basically have dress the aluminium over the edge of the inner section. The important thing is to keep it tight over the edge. This means starting almost on the outside edge of the can and gradually working it over to the point that starts to go into the end section. When you get to his point it will be pretty tricky to get in without using some sort of blunt drift or similar. It won't matter if this part looks a bit rough as it is covered by the end cap. Mine was bit messy and if did it again I would make a tool for it.

Once you are happy that it is sufficiently rolled over and tighter than a Jocks wallet, you may then need to clean the edge up a little so that the end cap sits in nicely.

I filed mine up and then gave it a puff of aluminium spray just to blend it in a bit.

Re-fit the end cap using springs washers on the bolts and maybe a dab of loctite as backup.

Pics are a little random and may not be in sync with the bollox I have just written but you will get the idea :tup:

Apologies for the link to the pics but for some reason the site wont let me upload anything :crazy:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/U6wH8vDr6JJoXSSdA
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Tue Sep 24, 2019 10:27 pm

That is tidy Nug, fair feckin play!
Tbh i doubt i could emulate that tidiness so hopefully I dont need to cut the busa can. I like the way you folded the ally skin over without creasing it. You should start doing that as a service..mmmmmm theres a thought :tup:
In fact a fella who could make a dr link pipe with a flange that would take both a 3 and a 4 bolt suzi can would sell a lot of them! You should consider it.
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Tue Oct 01, 2019 9:57 pm

Resi's flange landed and is a dream fit to the dominator link.
First thing is to measure clearance of the stock can in relation to swingarm.

From behind the spindle nut vertically to the can is 12 inch and 5 3/4 from behind the pillion peg guard. All the while its right of the tyre.
So armed with that i mocked it all up.

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Chop chop

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Tweaked it till i got this. Yeah that'll do nicely.

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Clearances good, higher than oem.

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Doesn't extend past the mudguard.

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Clears the indicators neatly which is sweet as i really want the bike stock looking as much as possible.

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Scribed the link pipe all the way round with a carbide bit where it meets the flange and indexed both so when tigged the can and pipe are right way up.

Started her up and it sounds bloody lovely even with the obvious blows. Its silenced the bark but the bass is nice and thumpy. Maybe 15% louder than stock.

Any concerns about having it tigged on both faces of the flange? As the link pipe is smaller than the opening in the can this won't cause sealing problems. Will it cause distortion though?
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby nug » Wed Oct 02, 2019 9:23 pm

Nice job mate :tup:

Should be fine with TIG both sides though not needed.

Looks huge! Guessing the side panel won't hide the mortar...I mean silencer :lolno:

The outlet is no further back than mine. I think the fact that it is lower accentuates the length of it ( thats what I tell the misses).

Will be awesome for drying gloves and socks on a wet ride out :tup:
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Thu Oct 03, 2019 12:09 am

nug wrote:Nice job mate :tup:

Should be fine with TIG both sides though not needed.

Looks huge! Guessing the side panel won't hide the mortar...I mean silencer :lolno:

The outlet is no further back than mine. I think the fact that it is lower accentuates the length of it ( thats what I tell the misses).

Will be awesome for drying gloves and socks on a wet ride out :tup:

Lol :lol: :lol: i dunno man! I think its a good size :wave:
Fundamentally it kinda obeys the basic rules of can size, it doesn't extend past the mudguard, its parallel to the angle of subframe and diameter is keeping. Honestly to me it looks like a stock can you'd find on a bike like that :tup:
I can slide the whole deal forward a bit more if necessary, about another 20mm if needed but its grand there to me.
Anyway Nug, you've deffo given me pause to have have a long unbiased look at it after a couple belgian beers on friday night hahaha!!!

On to the welder in the morning. Have indexed the holy bejaysus out of it for him to align it correctly before tacking so hopefully were good.
Will hand him this...
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...which I hope is right, to mount the gixer can on blue. Tis actually a more complicated piece than I gave it credit for. Theres a swell in the cans opening on the sealing area between the long section of bolts that requires the outline of the piece to appear oversize where it bolts up. That is unless you start getting fancy with curves. I wanted it as simple/cheap to make as possible so kept it rectangular.
Don't think this place has a laser or water jet (can you laser or water cut 6mm stainless?) so dont expect that flange to be cheap as theres a bit of work in it but they do not seem available to buy anyhwere. By the time i buy the stainless and a decent 49mm carbide hole saw I'd said to myself you should just have it made! :roll:
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby BigBob » Thu Oct 03, 2019 8:58 am

There`s a consequence of having a Gixxer can on your bike that you are unaware of.
Having followed Nug on our many trips to foreign parts for countless numbers of miles, I`ve realised that if you get too close behind him it`s like being shot repeatedly in the face. :o
The back pressure of that can really is something awesome, so I suggest you should warn any fellow travellers to keep their distance
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby nug » Thu Oct 03, 2019 9:11 pm

It still makes me chuckle when you forget and get right into the firing line :lolno:

Colum, Not worth moving it another 20mm as its still huge :lolno: It will be fine mate. I just need to get used to looking at it. It will sound nice that's for sure.

The flange for the Gixxer can will work fine. Mine is not profiled on the Big. The CCM one is though. I now have access to a decent plasma cutter so would use that to make another if I had to. It would still take some cleaning up and shaping though as its a handheld and not CNC. It does work well if you use a guide.

Did you happen to compare the weight between the two silencers?

Funny you should mention Belgian Beer......
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