Lots to be doing.

Questions regarding the DR750

Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Thu Oct 03, 2019 11:19 pm

Bob, duly noted mate, i shall not point the howitzer at anyone in anger :tup: Mad that i must check that out.

Busa can was 3.1 and gixer can 2.1 iirc. Incredibly light the gixer piece. Busa can still a feather in comparison to the boat anchor that was sat there.
Nug yea i think thats a match. It was actually a tricky draw starting from the proposed outside measurements. Realising this i measured bolt centres with a verniers exactly, plotted them and worked outwards. The unmeasured element is the centring of the main hole (49mm in my case as i intend using another dominator link pipe) but i think i have it licked, either way theres room for error there as its 60mm opening in the can. I'd be surprised if im not perfectly concentric. The only thing i changed was making the bolts 10mm giving a good 2mm play in all directions as a safety net for the machinsts work!
Yeah you took the words out of my mouth on the plasma cutter. I really shouldave bought one when they were on sale in lidl.
Hopefully thats the exhaust issue sorted. Should have it tomo and yeah it really is a lovely sound! I have a video of it but i dont utube so no way for ye to listen. Ill get back this time tomo after a large bottle of chimay to chime in on yer size shaming lol.

Anyone looking to cheaply upgrade your front brake? Hesslers HE Engineering brake pack is really superb but saucy. In the spirit of this "build" i intend doing a cost sensitive but safe home brew. No laughing down the back.
http://www.bobwrightmotorcycles.co.uk/n ... eguide.htm
Bought a new old stock complete including pads gilera nordwest lhs caliper from Bob for 85 quid. (This is the exact same caliper as used by HE) Touch of a bargain that!
I will be inspred by the HE brackets dimensions for mounting the fork leg and have the remainder faced off at the correct offset to align for the smaller di stock disc. I think i can do this and i reckon i can mock and draw it.
I had intended using my pillar drill as a milling station to home brew it but research informs me thats feckin lethal as the chucks keying wont take side loads with hilarious results. Nug if i render an exact drawing have you access to a friendly cnc man? Redaing up says 6068 t6 hardened or 7075 ideally.
Incidentially i did vaguely remember Bluesman off adv had done this and i found his pics but no schematic...
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Tidy work and his reports were encouraging.

Btw Bob Wright has more lhs calipers for sale...
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby Dr Mabuse » Fri Oct 04, 2019 11:49 am

Yo, great or daft minds think alike. If you recall we chatted about BW site recently and the actual cost compared to the brake conversion kit I got. I had spoken to Bob about his stock and rebuild kits (£69 inc Pistons) £85 for caliper so I ordered the later as a spare myself. I'd guess he only has a couple left now!

BTW, Seany O'Leary Engineering in Millstreet is magic for any toolmaking, engineering and welding. Not hard to pay considering his overheads and capacity to produce almost anything..... I'd dare say he'd turn out a few from sample or drawings more cost effectively if there were a few punters to get a batch made...
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby nug » Sat Oct 05, 2019 2:23 pm

Nice brake mod that. I seem to remember somebody doing it a few years back and finding that the clearance between the caliper and spokes was marginal. May have been a smaller disc though which would have made the issue worse.

No friendly CNC man available unfortunately. The are all a bunch of jobsworths near me and it takes them 3 months to do anything. My mate has a nice new CNC mill and CNC Lathe awaiting commissioning. Trouble is, I am building the workshop for it all and it is taking forever. Hopefully I will have use of it all when it is up and running.

The Gixxer silencer is lovely and light for sure. I think my cut down one was 1.6kg compared to about 4kg of the CCM one.

The big is coming on nicely mate. Keep up the posts :tup:
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Sun Oct 06, 2019 12:07 am

Not to worry Nug, been handy if ye had a friendly cnc man. We couldave brung him out like the gimp in pulp fiction, albeit for him to mill rather than ride like :wtf: :lolno:

Story with project blunderbuss is the flange and link are on a shelf awaiting welding in the engineering company. Hopefully mon tues :yawn: Fookin thing better fit!!!

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One little step for exhaust, one giant leap for no blowing.

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Echo echoooo

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Cool design for the dust seals, just like a car.

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Obviously with the HE disc this would fit but thats like 170 odd quid extra never mind the bracket! You can see why the package works, waaay more swept area and a no flex caliper with greater clamping forces.
Anyway that caliper needs bringing in and down so the pads are on the swept area of the disc without the disc touching the caliper.

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Oddly this caliper on this bike is not offset out enough from the disc. Not sure why, all the measurements appear same. Tis small potatoes either way as if necessary the calipers mating faces can be brought down a mm and a half to accommodate centering the disc in the caliper.

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I settled on 25mm.
So in effect the caliper needs to move 25mm towards the spindle whilst maintaining the correct attitude to prevent the disc hitting the body of the caliper at the top or bottom of where the disc enters and leaves.

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The straight dotted line is 25mm out from the bolt centres. The angle maintains the above requisites to keep the caliper aligned.

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Now for the least fun bit.
First draw the HE bracket.... (i didnt include dimensions as its someone elses intellectual property, but i most certainly will give complete dimensions of my finished bracket to mount on the oe disc....to use at your own risk)

The key here is moving the 70mm gilera bolt spacing 25mm in the direction of the spindle. Or to put that another way, move the pads perpendicular to the disc 25mm inwards. This forms the new bolt holes to align the caliper on our disc. Well thats the theory. I will make it in hardwood or resin first to check and if its a goer i will have it made in preferably 7075.

As you can tell all i have is the rough outline for the bracket as of yet. I do not want both cut outs (pockets) for fork and caliper bolts to overlap as this weakens the plot by thinning cross section there. I can get round that by removing the big slot for the caliper in HE'S design. If i instead just have two pockets allowing the calipers mounting lugs to enter it eliminates that. What im driving at here is replicating the fork bolts' pockets but for the caliper mounts, rather than a wholesale long relief slot thats currently there.

If anyone sees something I've done wrong or are unaware of shout stop.

Btw can someone claify what they reckon Bluesman has employed to affix his bracket to the fecking fork leg!!?? On my bikes the forks casting lugs are plain unthreaded holes which a bolt goes through to mate with the threaded element of the caliper. I cannot understand how he has attached that bracket unless he has either cut threads into the forks lugs, or more likely has nuts holding the bolts (and consequently the bracket) on the disc side of the forks lugs. His bracket doesn't have a relief for the lugs with a threaded element going behind it is my point. Using nuts to hold the bolts (and consequently the bracket) changes the loading on the lugs from oem when you think about it. It's beyond my pay grade but i want forces dealt with in as close to original fashion as much as possible.

Now to find a block of something easily interfered with to provide proof of concept ;)
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby BigBob » Sun Oct 06, 2019 8:47 am

Btw can someone clarify what they reckon Bluesman has employed to affix his bracket to the fecking fork leg!!??

No idea what he used on his set up, but I have a Harrison 4 pot set up on one of my Bigs with a Brembo disc, so had a similar problem to yours.
I used a stainless nyloc with a stainless spring washer and a stainless Allen on each lug and they haven`t caused me any bother so far after many thousands of miles
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Mon Oct 07, 2019 10:04 pm

BigBob wrote:Btw can someone clarify what they reckon Bluesman has employed to affix his bracket to the fecking fork leg!!??

No idea what he used on his set up, but I have a Harrison 4 pot set up on one of my Bigs with a Brembo disc, so had a similar problem to yours.
I used a stainless nyloc with a stainless spring washer and a stainless Allen on each lug and they haven`t caused me any bother so far after many thousands of miles


I pm'd Bluesman and yep he has done as I reckoned and used nuts on the disc side of the lugs, same as yourself Bob. I'm gonna change the plan to this.

Both of you have had no issues from doing it, so the lugs are capable of dealing with whatever different twisting forces/leverage this arrangement causes. In terms of making this bracket myself this option is by far and away a simpler approach than replicating the HE design. A huge bonus is that all holes are plain too.

What I'm lacking now is a finer understanding of what type fixings to use in this application. Bob you mention stainless nyloc and spring washer. What kind of spring washer was it? Was the bolt shank plain going through the bracket and lug as per oem? Why stainless?
A flanged nut would be nice but instead of nyloc could a v nut/self locking (rear sprocket type) be used? Instead of spring washers could a serrated flange nut be utilised? Should one use a serrated nut on bare aluminium?
Must read up.

To see if my design will work i dug up an impossibly heavy lump of very old hardwood I bought yrs back from a closing sale of a furniture makers.

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Took ages to cut with a rip saw by hand, very hard! Careful three triangular sawing gave me the same 29mm thickness of the HE bracket. Bob what thickness is your bracket from lug out?

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Drilled the 90mm fork lug holes.

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Drilled my new calioer mount holes as per my drawing. Thats as far as I git.
Now to cut the profile out and start working on the offset for the caliper depth. Once i have it mounted and alls well I'll fire on with it in 6082.
Whats yours made of Bob?
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby BigBob » Tue Oct 08, 2019 9:17 am

Mounting bracket is made of 6mm stainless and it was really hard to work with but I know it will never break, bend or wear out.
Don`t follow my lead as I`m not an engineer, but mine all hangs together and is a massive improvement over OE
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby Deano » Tue Oct 08, 2019 3:50 pm

6082 will be fine, 7075 has better strength but will pit/corrode quicker unless painted. You are applying a pulling force so your not going to bend it, I never had anyone come back having bent one stopping a Harley and the chrome on them weighs more than our bikes. If you are concerned about the mounting check out if you can get a shoulder/step bolt to suit the holes, failing that you could sleeve the bolts to fit the holes.

I made a rear disc for a Hayabusa in aluminium once but that was to conform to a drag racing rule that a converted street bike had to have a back brake, it didn't say it had to function. Not sure if he ran them on this but nearly every mount, clip and modified panel was done by me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEuFfyMmG4w
I have my wife's permission to keep breathing!!
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Tue Oct 08, 2019 8:55 pm

BigBob wrote:Mounting bracket is made of 6mm stainless and it was really hard to work with but I know it will never break, bend or wear out.
Don`t follow my lead as I`m not an engineer, but mine all hangs together and is a massive improvement over OE

Lot of patience to work stainless Bob, fair play. Mind you for peace of mind you can't beat it.
Yeah if this mod proves to be half as good as the HE Engineering one it will still be twice as good as stock lol :tup:
If you made that bracket with your own hands your more of an engineer than me! I've had involvement in the design of one before but not the physci making. Would kill for a milling station!
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Re: Lots to be doing.

Postby H_Lime » Tue Oct 08, 2019 9:12 pm

Deano wrote:6082 will be fine, 7075 has better strength but will pit/corrode quicker unless painted. You are applying a pulling force so your not going to bend it, I never had anyone come back having bent one stopping a Harley and the chrome on them weighs more than our bikes. If you are concerned about the mounting check out if you can get a shoulder/step bolt to suit the holes, failing that you could sleeve the bolts to fit the holes.

I made a rear disc for a Hayabusa in aluminium once but that was to conform to a drag racing rule that a converted street bike had to have a back brake, it didn't say it had to function. Not sure if he ran them on this but nearly every mount, clip and modified panel was done by me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEuFfyMmG4w

Fair dues Deano, that things a fuggin beast!!
So 6068 is aok then? I'd read its fairly corrosion resistant.

Here's the set i had a hand in
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They are in 7075 but the plan was to clear anodise but never got round to it. I do give them a wee wipe of acf though.
I will deffo get a shoulder bolt for it. What nut do you recommend? Should i use a serrated one or will it gall the mating surface on the lug?
Cheers for the info Deano.
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