Tips

Non bike specific questions

Tips

Postby H_Lime » Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:40 pm

I'll preface by stating the obvious, I'm no mechanic, but i spent over 10 hrs working on the bike today and came to the conclusion that the dr750big is the most annoying bike I've ever owned to work on :shh: Seriously.
The dual tanks fuel plumbings a fookin joke. So too the packaging of the airbox and battery box. Carbs installation is a pain in the sack. I could rip the throttle bodies or the carbs out of any other bike i own or have owned in less time than the single cylinder dr750 on my bench.
But.....after the third rip and install of carbs today i slowly realised a smart man can make things easier for himself. In no particular order.

1, install the carb breather hose on the carbs before installing the carbs. Oh yes.

2, when removing the lhs tank leave the petcock to filter hose in situ on the bike, namely unclip the hose from the petcock. Big pain in the c×ock otherwise.

3, warming the rubber airbox to carb manifold and greasing the mating surfaces helps. A lot.

4, a miss routed earth lead makes for smelly fun when trying to join the quick release fuel connectors.

5, complete airbox removal requires access to 4th dimensional space time.

6, reinstating the lhs float bowl with later gen overflows and Resi's fuel screw requires access to the fifth dimensional space time and a beer. The tip being remove the external idle screw first

7, finding the washer from the idle screw on 20yo deep pile carpet is amazing craic!
The tip being don't drop that washer.

8, get a small human to hold the rhs tank while you frantically screw the retainig bolts to stop it falling before she looses interest.

That's about it for now.

All joking aside I'd like to hear any hard won tips you've discovered when working on it :angel:
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Re: Tips

Postby Hann » Sun Apr 14, 2019 7:58 am

This is a timely post as i`ll be attempting carb removal for the first time on my Big today.
It sounds like there`s gonna` be a lot of swearing....
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Re: Tips

Postby H_Lime » Sun Apr 14, 2019 8:22 am

Dont be put off Hann, well much :lolno:
The physcial act of actually pulling the carbs and installing them is grand. Its the myriad other annoying little tasks you have to do before/after.
What i want to know is how the likes of Bob, Nug, Dave etc remove and install tanks/carbs.

A for instance is Dave#22, iirc the first time i met him in person he recounted how he had to pull a float from the carbs in situ, clean the valve and reinstall it on the road side an hour previously. At the time i thought jesus he's a handy boyo, now i think he reads braille and could work on gods dr big :lol:

Another tip is remove and arrange the bolts in the order they come off. Sounds basic but it's a timesaver!
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Re: Tips

Postby BigBob » Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:36 am

I must have removed the carbs at least a hundred times over the last thirty years, possibly even double that so I guess I`m familiar with the process by now.
About twenty minutes to remove them start to finish is about average. About thirty to reassemble it all back in place.
I`ve replaced every screw or bolt with s/steel Allens so I don`t have to mess with cross head screws that chew up easily, this includes replacing all the carb rubber clamp screws with 4mm Allens.
Also, I`ve replaced all the hose clamps with s/steel ones of the correct size.
Yep, laying out each screw in order on a bench definitely helps with reassembling in the correct order.
I always leave the carb/airbox rubber in a jug of boiling water for 5 minutes before reassembly which makes it really easy, but remember to remove air filter first for easy access.
I never bothered to replace the big clamp on the airbox rubber as it was such a pain and it seems you don`t really need it anyway.
I spent silly money with Suzuki on a load of pilot screw o rings and tiny washers as it`s guaranteed you will always lose at least one, particularly as they seem to attach themselves to the little spring then ping off into outer space the moment they are unscrewed.
I`ve spent silly money over the years replacing all the fuel lies with OE but I know that they are not going to crack and/or perish when I take the tanks off, which happens with non OE stuff.
It doesn`t help that some of the lines are 6mm one end and 8mm the other so you are stuck with OE anyway.
If you are doing the carbs for the first time then prepare yourself for a plumbing nightmare, usually made worse by a previous owner who was a nut rounding bodger.
Unscrewing the fuel pump from the frame mounts will guarantee a donation of your knuckle skin as well, so having a dextrous assistant with tiny hands is recommended.
Yep, removing carbs on the Big is an absolute pain so it`s worth doing it properly first time so you don`t have to repeat an exercise in utter misery ;)
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Re: Tips

Postby Hann » Sun Apr 14, 2019 7:46 pm

Well, the carb swap went OK, there was minimal if any swearing at all!
I think knowing what a legendary pita it is after reading about it on this forum prepared me and i knew i`d make my life easier by loosening the battery tray to enable the airbox to be moved back a bit would help. And it did..
Those tanks are a challenge to get off, arn`t they?

I also changed the oil and filter, and removed the pick-up strainer cover on the underside of the engine, although i couldn`t actually take the strainer off to wash it as the two small screws were just too damn tight. It wasn`t dirty, anyway.

The tappets have been set - what a pain those ex. clearances are to set - no room to get your hands in at all!
I set them to .004" all round - i hope that`s OK?
I`ve seen 3 - 5 in the manual but also a reference on some models for 6 - 8 on the exhaust?

Topped up the fork oil as the previous owner didn`t put enough in...

I`ve now got the rear suspension shock and linkage on the bench for a clean-up and lube job.
I was amazed that all the bolts came out relatively easily - my experiences with some other Jap stuff has shown that this job can quickly turn into a nightmare with seized bolts, inaccessible fixings and all sorts of extra work involved by the removal of neighbouring components.
I was also impressed by how well made the linkage is - nice and hefty bearings and sleeves etc. This one looked like it might have received some attention over the last 20 years as there was residual grease in there.

To be continued..
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Re: Tips

Postby BigBob » Sun Apr 14, 2019 7:58 pm

Never heard of seized bearings on a Big linkage so they obviously got it right first time.
Good idea to check everything over properly if just for peace of mind.
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Re: Tips

Postby nug » Wed Apr 17, 2019 1:45 pm

You are likely doing it all correctly Colum. No real tips other than common sense and patience. warming the rubber is a major help as already mentioned. I would not put grease on as it will rot the rubber and stays greasy which can help it come off when you don't want it to. I only such rubber parts with something that dries out like soapy water. You would not use grease to put a tyre on would you..... :o

I re-plumbed my tanks in such a way that I can take both tanks off together with just the front bracket holding them together. No coupling to leak or mess about with.
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